Stirring a pot of polenta can be tricky for a short cook like me who has to
balance on a step stool to reach into the steaming mash. But with a double
boiler, the polenta practically cooks itself perfectly (without the risk of a
burn). The double-boiler method uses lower, slower heat so that the cornmeal
grains swell and become exceptionally creamy and sweet. Served straight from the
pot and drizzled with butter, sprinkled with cheese, this polenta is the
ultimate comfort dish. Topped with robust mushroom duxelles, it makes an elegant
first course or light meal.
Duxelles, named for 17th-century gourmand Marquis d’Uxelles, is a hearty
paste of chopped mushrooms and garlic sautéed in butter with plenty of herbs. It
contains no meat, is rich and satisfying, stores for a week in the refrigerator
and freezes nicely. I keep it on hand as a base for soups, to top baked
potatoes, fill omelets, toss with pasta, and to slather on pizza, bruschetta,
risotto and this polenta. Granted, there’s a fair amount of chopping upfront,
but once you’ve started cooking, you’re pretty much done.
For this classic recipe, you don’t need perfectly fresh mushrooms; the box
of white button mushrooms that’s lingered in the crisper too long is fine. (Of
course, if they’re slimy, toss them out.) If they’re simply shriveled and dry,
cooking mushrooms in butter will plump them back up. Now that our food co-ops
offer such a wide variety of locally grown fungi, try using a mix in this recipe
— portobellos, shiitake, large-stem oyster, lion’s manes, chanterelle, porcini
and others — from our organic mushroom farmers, such as Mississippi Mushrooms,
Cherry Tree Mushrooms and Forest Mushrooms
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